Puglian Cartellate: A Christmas Tradition
‘Tis the season for cartellate, a traditional sweet Christmas treat from Puglia. Spirals of crunchy pastry that can be baked or fried and are then, very generously, coated in vincotto or honey. A very Puglia Christmas tradition. Leftover pastry become struffoli, little fried balls.
The History Behind Cartellate
The name “cartellate” is believed to derive from the term incartellare, meaning to wrap or crimp the pastry into its iconic spirals. Some say the shape represents the swaddling cloth of baby Jesus or a halo. Historical records from 1762 mention cartellate being served in the Benedictine convent of Santa Scolastica in Bari, marking their longstanding connection to Christmas traditions in our region.
But their origins can be traced back even further. They appear in 6th-century BC paintings also discovered in Bari.
The Puglia Kitchen Cartellate
For this you will need:
- 600g type 00 flour
- 60g olive oil
- 230g wine
- A pinch of salt
- A pinch of sugar
- 600g vincotto, honey
Method
- Add a pinch of salt and sugar to the flour. Gradually add the olive oil and wine and mix by hand until the dough is smooth.
- Knead the dough and let it rest for 30 minutes.
- Roll dough thinly and cut into strips about 30cm long and 3cm wide. Shape into spirals, pinching edges to secure.
- Let dry in a cool, dry place for at least an hour. A crucial step for the signature crunch!
- Fry in hot oil, turning frequently. Drain on paper towels.
- Heat honey (or vincotto) with a splash of water until thickened. Coat the cartellate in honey and decorate with candied fruit peel or sprinkles. Let it stand for another 30 minutes before eating.
While many fry their cartellate, they are sometimes baked them in a wood-fired oven for a lighter finish. Bake for 10–15 minutes until golden.
Instead of honey you can use vincotto – a syrup made from cooked grapes or figs – or quince jelly.
Fry any leftover dough into tiny balls—these are called purcheddhruzzi in dialect (struffoli) and are just as delicious.
The Bari Cartellate Tradition
In the streets of Bari Vecchia cartellate are everywhere. Even the pasta ladies who make and sell pasta on their doorsteps, turn to make cartellate in their kitchens.
The cartellate from Bari are much smaller and said to represent the thorn of crowns from the crucifixion of Jesus. They are steeped in vincotto, for a gloriously treacly taste. Straight after frying they are transferred into another pan with bubbling vincotto, where they sit while the vincotto is spooned over them, gloriously filling the pockets.
Le cartellate non si fanno mai con lo scirocco. Io le faccio solo con la tramontana.
Notice the fan over the pastry. The pasta ladies reiterated that it is important the cartellate are left to dry before cooking for maximum crunch. “Cartellate are never made with the sirocco [the warm wind that comes from the sea and brings humidity]. I only make them with the tramontana [the cold dry wind from the north].”
They are absolutely incredible! The cartellate below were made by Puglia Guy Andrea’s mum.
For more recipes from the Puglia Kitchen, check out our Puglia Kitchen archive.
