Spaghetti with Primitivo
Serves: 4
This is our Puglia version of spaghetti ‘mbriachi (from ‘ubriachi’ meaning drunk, the double vowel clipped to be easier on the ear). In cooking terms, spaghetti ubriachi is simply pasta sautéed in red wine, with onion. In taste terms, it’s delicious al dente spaghetti steeped in your favourite deep bodied red wine with creamy onion crescents, spoiled by a buttery finish (one of the few dishes we cook using butter, a northern Italian practice).
Spaghetti ‘mbriachi acquires an intense purple colour (not always Instagram friendly) as well as taking on the full-bodied flavour of the wine – another reason to use a wine you enjoy drinking!
We are in Puglia
As well as being a prolific producer of olive oil (accounting for almost half of Italy’s annual production), Puglia is Italy’s second top wine producing region, especially known for its robust reds.
A 30-minute drive from our Puglia Guys countryside HQ takes us to Manduria, where Primitivo di Manduria DOC is produced. En route the landscape noticeably changes from silver-green olive groves to precisely curated vineyards.
Manduria is the only wine-growing area in Italy specialising in Primitivo, a grape native to our region, Puglia’s best known wine, and the reason why our spaghetti ‘mbriachi becomes spaghetti al Primitivo.
Although Primitivo di Manduria DOC is internationally known and available, you can substitute your favourite Italian red (we often use Negroamaro, slightly less heavy than Primitivo but still far from light). Drunken spaghetti works equally well with Sangiovese or Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Even a Barolo. Across Italy the choice of wine usually depends on location. In Sicily a Nero di Troia is often used, while in Tuscany they might use Chianti (for us, a little too light!). Any medium to full bodied black-cherry or deep-purple coloured red, tasting of plum and spice works with this dish. So long as it’s an Italian red!
Variations
Like many Italian recipes, not all versions of drunken spaghetti have the same ingredients, except for the red wine and pasta of course. In Tuscany nutmeg and sugar is added. There are versions that incorporate sausage or crispy guanciale. Our own recipe tweaks include chilli, speck (which has a better consistency for stewing in the wine than softer guanciale, which melts away), thinly chopped radicchio and a smoked burrata finish.
We include our Puglia version of spaghetti al Primitivo extras with the recipe, but these are optional. The recipe is equally excellent without them!
For this you will need
- 500g spaghetti
- 1 large onion (we usually cook with red, but use a brown onion here)
- 30g butter
- 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 400ml Primitivo red wine, plus a glass to drink as you cook
- 100g grated pecorino
- salt and pepper to season
Optional extras include:
- 200g speck (or pancetta), cut into strips
- half head radicchio, chopped thinly
- 100g smoked burrata (or mozzarella), torn into small pieces
Take your favourite wine glass. Fill it with a generous pour of Primitivo. Sip.
Half the onion. Cut each half into third-moons. (If using as optional extras, cut the speck into thin strips and slice the radicchio).
Melt the butter with the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-low heat. Add (the strips of speck and stir for a few minutes until they become slightly crisp. Add the radicchio and) the onion, with a generous pinch of salt, stir well, then cover and cook gently until (the radicchio softens and) the onion becomes translucent.
Pour in the suggested measure of Primitivo and let the mixture simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. As the liquor reduces the mixture takes on a creamy texture. If it starts to dry out, add a splash of extra wine (or some of the spaghetti water).
While the Primitivo mixture is simmering, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Once ready, drop the pasta directly into the mixture. Put the lid on the pan and toss vigorously.
Add the grated pecorino, (torn pieces of smoked burrata) and a decent grind of black pepper. Add some more of the pasta liquor and toss again to make a smooth, silky sauce.
Serve immediately with extra pecorino to taste.
If you are using guanciale instead of speck (or pancetta), cut it into strips, first fry it off in the butter and oil without any seasoning, remove it with a slotted spoon and set it aside, adding it to the finished dish as a final step before serving it.
