Gallipoli | Two Towns Entwined in Tide and Time

Gallipoli | A Tale Of Two Cities Entwined in the Current of Tide and Time

The Greek influence on Puglia’s Salento peninsula is ever present. Road signs tell us we have arrived in “Magna Grecia” – greater Greece. There are directional signs to follow to Greece (via the Brindisi ferries). Griko, a dialect that can be traced back to classic Greek origins, is still spoken in the villages south of Lecce, particularly those around Otranto on the Adriatic coast to Gallipoli on the Ionian, where Greek cultural identity was at its strongest.

Spanning time and tide, Gallipoli’s name reveals its Greek origins: kalé pólis (“beautiful town”), the ancient name given to the fishing village and port that comprise the old town. At the heart of Gallipoli’s narrative stands another bridge – a physical connection uniting two worlds, connecting the old and the new, the quiet and the vibrant.

On one side of the 16th century Ponte Città Vecchia old town bridge perched on a limestone island jutting into the Ionian Sea, Gallipoli’s old town whispers stories of a centuries old fishing village insulated by its ancient city walls. On the other modern Gallipoli radiates a different energy. A hub of contemporary life, brimming with vibrant shops, bustling piazzas, and a thriving cultural scene.

But tide and time wait for no one and these days Gallipoli’s charismatic split personality spills over into the old town. By day its fishermen residents sit in cool shade forged out of sun-soaked alleys lined by whitewashed facades, to chat, drink and mend their nets, living out a past history. It seems as if modern life has failed to intrude upon them. But as the sun dips below the horizon, Gallipoli’s transformation is undeniable. During the summer season it undergoes a metamorphosis, transforming into a pulsating party mecca. 

From Whispers to Roars | Gallipoli Unleashed

Gallipoli has become a hotspot for travellers seeking both history and hedonism. The summer season sees a seismic shift as Gallipoli becomes synonymous with revelry and celebrations extending well beyond the old and new towns. Nearby beaches – especially those in and around Baia Verde – echo with the rhythms of music festivals, vibrant parties, and a diverse crowd. Beach clubs, bars, and open-air discos pulse with energy, their neon lights casting kaleidoscopic reflections on the waters. International DJs spin tunes that resonate with the waves, as revelers from around the world unite to dance beneath the stars.

A Stroll Through Time | Our Gallipoli To Do List

Gallipoli is not merely a seaside town—it is in the sea, an island-city with a deep historical legacy and a distinctive urban identity.

The old town stands testament to the town’s deep-rooted history. With each step nearer its heart it’s as if you’ve stepped back in time. The narrow winding streets, lined with pastel-coloured buildings adorned with vibrant flowers, create a postcard-worthy scene. These are Gallipoli highlights – a more detailed walking itinerary is suggested at the end of this guide.

If you arrive in Gallipoli by car, you can’t drive over the bridge into the centro storico. Park in the ‘new city’ and walk over the bridge.

The Castle of Gallipoli | Start your journey around the old town at the Castle of Gallipoli, perched on the town’s eastern edge. Dating back to the 13th century to defend the town from invaders, this fortress is now a cultural centre. Climb its ancient ramparts for panoramic views of the surrounding sea and town.

Walk the Sea Wall | Walking around the town’s perimeter to spot charming seafront cafes, restaurants, and observe fishermen at work in their colourful boats by the port is a good way to take in Gallipoli at the start of any visit.

Spiaggia della Purità | The city beach marks the half-way point around the old town perimeter. A favourite city beach, la purità is the perfect place to soak up the sun and sea breeze, and to watch the sun set of an evening.

Baroque Splendors | Stroll through the old town’s labyrinthine alleys to discover its Baroque churches. Gallipoli boasts many churches. The Basilica of Sant’Agata is an architectural masterpiece, adorned with ornate facades and elaborate interiors. At the Chiesa della Purità you might pause to gaze at the mosaic inset in the paving. As you walk around the sea wall notice the many small Baroque churches squeezed into the spaces between buildings looking out toward the island of Sant’Andrea, with its lighthouse. It is easy to imagine them as fishermen’s chapels where the Madonna of the Angels and San Luigi listened to the prayers of anxious fishermen’s wives. In fact these churches were founded centuries ago by the town’s craft fraternities – coopers, rope makers and others – reflecting Gallipoli’s history as a bustling maritime hub when its port was the export point for the wine and olive oil of the whole Salento. The wealth accumulated explains the richness of its church interiors.

The Fishing Port | Make your way to the picturesque fishing port. Here, you can watch hard-working fishermen at work, and if you arrive early enough, you might even witness the daily fish auction. The port is also dotted with charming seafood restaurants where you can find the freshest catch of the day. There is a small retail fish market next to the bridge on the old town side most mornings. The wholesale market can be found by Piazza Aldo Moro by Santa Maria del Canneto of an evening. Beware the hazards of vespa scooters balancing boxes of fresh fishes weaving in between the people, and the swordfish snouts poking out from in between!

Explore the Centro Storico | Having navigated the perimeter, discover the heart of Gallipoli’s centro storico. Take your time to meander through its winding streets, alleys, and hidden corners. Here you can discover the longtime residents going about their daily business, the fishermen mending their nets or weaving lobster pots and fishing baskets.

Old Town Courtyards | Gallipoli’s old town has many “hidden” courtyards often located at the end of dead end passageways, famous for their well-preserved medieval architecture. Surrounded by narrow cobblestone streets, with whitewashed buildings adorned with plants and colourful flowers, balconies, archways, baroque columns and terraces delight the eye, you’ll feel as if you have stepped back in time. Discover quaint shops, artisan boutiques and local artisans showcasing traditional crafts.

Gallipoli Sunsets | Gallipoli offers breathtaking sunsets. Savour this daily spectacle with a glass of local wine and olives from a rooftop terrace or on a nearby beach.

Day Trips | Gallipoli’s location makes it an ideal base for day trips. Head south to Santa Maria di Leuca, which has a unique belle epoque feel, or cross over to Otranto on the Adriatic. It’s an easy drive to Lecce, or head up the Ionian coast to Nardò and the wonderfully wild Porto Selvaggio beach and nature reserve.

Taste Gallipoli | Where to Sip and Savour:

As usual, good for is only just around the corner wherever you are in Puglia. Bad food is hard to find. We encourage you to follow your nose rather than fret over fear of missing out. But by way of appetiser we keep going back to:

1. Trattoria La Puritate: For lunch or dinner, head to La Puritate, a rustic trattoria known for fresh, top quality seafood dishes, all while enjoying the serene views of the sea. The restaurant is next to the Chiesa della Purità, sitting above spiaggia della Purità. Popular with locals, we suggest linguettine alla Puritate as primo (small linguine with small prawns, thin strips of courgette and cherry tomatoes) followed by the theatrical gamberoni al sale. | Via Sant’Elia, 18 | trattorialapuritate.it
2. Ristorante Il Bastione: Family run restaurant whose fresh seafood comes from the fishmarket stall of their fisherman brother. Beautiful panoramic views over the sea, and a perfect view of sunset | Riviera Nazario Sauro, 28 | ilbastionegallipoli.it
3. Martinucci: No visit is complete without gelato. Satisfy your sweet tooth at Martinucci where you can indulge in a variety of artisanal gelato flavors | Riviera Armando Diaz, 129

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Gallipoli: In History and Culture

Historically, Gallipoli’s strategic position along major maritime routes and its natural limestone islet setting made it an ideal settlement location. While its origins remain debated, it is widely believed that the town was originally a Messapian settlement called Anxa, later influenced by Greek colonisation. The name “Gallipoli” itself derives from the Greek kalé pólis, meaning “beautiful city.” Under Greek rule, the city flourished, establishing its own institutions, minting currency, and exerting control over a vast territory stretching from Porto Cesareo to Leuca.

Gallipoli came under Roman control in 265 BC and played a key role as a military statio and later a municipium. Its importance increased with the construction of the Via Traiana in the early 2nd century AD, connecting the city to Brindisi and the wider Roman road network.

Byzantine and Islamic Influences

During Byzantine rule, Gallipoli’s fortifications were reinforced, and it became a bishopric in 551 AD. The Orthodox rite, established during this period, remained in practice until the 16th century. The town also became a centre for monastic life, with numerous hermitages and religious settlements developing in the surrounding region.

Gallipoli was a target for various invaders over the centuries, including Saracens, who occupied the town in the early 10th century. The urban layout reflects the layered influences of Byzantine and Islamic cultures, evident in its winding alleys, enclosed courtyards, and irregular street patterns.

Norman, Angevin, and Aragonese Rule

The Normans, led by Robert Guiscard, captured Gallipoli in 1071, marking the beginning of a period of expansion and fortification. Under Angevin rule in the late 13th century, the city suffered destruction and heavy taxation, but the Angevins also reinforced the castle and introduced new defensive structures.

By the 15th century, Gallipoli had become an important stronghold under Aragonese rule. The Venetians briefly occupied the city in 1484, recognising its strategic and commercial value. Following their withdrawal, the Aragonese strengthened Gallipoli’s defences, constructing coastal watchtowers and fortifying the castle.

A Flourishing Trade Hub and Baroque Transformation

From the late 16th century, Gallipoli experienced a period of relative peace, allowing for urban development within its fortified walls. By the 17th and 18th centuries, it had become one of Europe’s most important centres for olive oil trade. The city’s economic prosperity led to a boom in architectural projects, including the construction of elegant Baroque churches, noble palaces, and the restructuring of public squares. Notable religious landmarks from this period include the cathedral of St Agatha, the churches of La Purità, St Francis of Paola, and St Teresa, all adorned with intricate decorative elements.

Modern Expansion and Transformation

In the late 18th and 19th centuries, Gallipoli began expanding beyond its historic centre. The development of the Borgo Nuovo followed an organised urban plan, featuring a grid layout with uniform streets and building regulations. The construction of a new port and railway connections further facilitated Gallipoli’s growth as a commercial hub. However, modern expansion has also brought challenges, with rapid tourism-driven development impacting the city’s historic and natural landscape.

Despite these changes, the old town remains remarkably intact, preserving its historic charm and unique character. Its labyrinthine streets, vibrant marketplaces, and scenic seafront views continue to enchant visitors, offering a glimpse into Gallipoli’s rich past while embracing the vitality of the present.

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Exploring Gallipoli: A Walking Itinerary

Gallipoli’s historic centre is a fascinating mosaic of cultures, civilisations, and architectural styles, shaped by centuries of history. Our walking itinerary offers a glimpse into the town’s past, guiding visitors through its intricate alleys, vibrant squares, and magnificent landmarks. This is a suggested itinerary, and certainly not intended to be prescriptive. Don’t be afraid to wander off route. Exploring Gallipoli’s old town reveals a network of hidden courtyards, palaces, and lesser-known churches, revealing the layered heritage of Gallipoli’s old town.

Starting Point: Piazza Fontana Greca

Leaving behind the modern high-rise buildings that contrast sharply with the historic skyline, the journey begins at Piazza Fontana Greca. This picturesque square is home to the Fontana Greca, a stunning fountain adorned with classical-era bas-reliefs depicting legendary scenes, later framed by a Baroque structure in the 16th century.

At the end of the Piazza Aldo Moro lies the Santuario di Santa Maria del Canneto church, a 17th-century reconstruction of an earlier sacred building. The church’s porticoed façade and three-naved interior reflect the evolving religious and architectural history of the area. The surrounding waterfront, still lively with fishing activities, adds a dynamic atmosphere to this historical setting.

The Castle and Piazza della Repubblica

Head back to and cross the Ponte Papa Giovanni Paolo II, where the imposing structure of the Rivellino pier and fortified tower (built immediately after the castle) and the Castello di Gallipoli dominate the view. The tower, once equipped with catapults and cannons, served both as an advanced bastion for the defence of the city against sieges and as a control point for traffic between the mainland and the village.

The castle remains an important symbol of Gallipoli’s military past. Historically, its moat separated the fortress from the settlement, but it was filled in during the late 19th century to accommodate a marketplace.

Head into the old town along Via Antonietta de Pace, the main thoroughfare. This passes by Piazza della Repubblica, where the historic Arco Palace forms an elegant backdrop. Continuing along Antonietta de Pace (named after a local heroine of the Risorgimento movement) you will pass by on the left the Monticola and Ravenna buildings, with their stately, classical entrance along Via Fontò.

Palazzo Balsamo and the Civic Theatre

Continuing along the thoroughfare takes you to Palazzo Balsamo on the right (1718) with its striking façade punctuated by elegant stone-framed windows, though its upper section remains incomplete. Within the same block, accessible from Via Garibaldi, stands the Teatro Garibaldi civic theatre, built in 1825 on the site of a former courtyard.

Piazza del Duomo and the Cathedral

Further along Via Antoionette de Pace brings visitors to Via Duomo. The 18th-century clock tower marks the entrance to this historic precinct. At the far end stands the 16th-century Pirelli Palace, notable for its grand entrance and balcony-loggia adorned with a bifora arch. The spectacular façade of the Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata rises up opposite.

Construction

Constructed began in 1629 and 1696 under the patronage of Spanish Bishop Consalvo de Rueda, using materials sourced from nearby quarries, the cathedral’s design is attributed to Gallipoli architect Bernardino Genuino. Genuino, who passed away in 1653 or 1655, did not live to see his vision realised. It was not until 1667 that a new contract was awarded to master builder Tomaso Sanasi, leading to further structural developments, including the new sacristy. The cathedral was finally completed between 1683 and 1696, featuring a significantly larger structure compared to its predecessor, with a redesigned facade that departed from the original Romanesque-Pugliese style.

The exterior contrasts a rigorous lower section with an exuberant Baroque upper structure. Inside, the Latin cross layout, vaulted ceilings, and richly decorated chapels frame an overwhelming pictorial programme. Dominating the walls and ceiling are masterful works by Coppola, including The Assumption, The Souls of Purgatory, and The Martyrdom of Saint Agatha. These frescoes influenced later commissions, such as those by Neapolitan painters Nicola and Carlo Malinconico.

Inside in detail

The main nave, flanked by two smaller naves, extends up to the high altar and choir, with access provided by three steps leading to a central entrance and two lateral doors. The nave is supported by twelve Doric columns arranged in a specific pattern, providing the base for finely decorated round arches. Above these structures, large windows allow for cross-lighting, enhancing the cathedral’s grandeur.

The cathedral’s interior is adorned with intricate decorations, including rosettes, floral motifs, and elegantly designed altars dedicated to various saints. Key altars include those of St. Isidorus, St. Francis of Paola, Our Lady of Grace, St. Agatha, and St. Sebastian, among others. The altar of St. Agatha is particularly noteworthy, positioned in the left transept, while the high altar and bishop’s chair dominate the raised presbytery area.

The cathedral’s roof structure is supported by trusses and covered by an elaborately decorated wooden ceiling featuring paintings. The two side naves, lower than the central nave, have cross vaults adorned with floral festoons and rosettes. The transept sections boast composite cross vaults that integrate harmoniously with the rest of the architectural design.

The central dome, rising above the Latin cross intersection, is a defining feature. Supported by four large round arches, it is adorned with metopes, a serrated cornice, and oval windows that allow natural light to filter through. The entire structure culminates in a magnificent wooden ceiling embedded with a large square canvas.

Final Stops: Civic Museum and Hidden Treasures

Leaving the cathedral, the walk continues along Via Antonietta de Pace, passing the Museo Civico Emanuele Barba on the right and the Frantoio Ipogeo di Palazzo Granafei on the left. Established in the 19th century, the museum houses an eclectic collection spanning malacology, numismatics, ceramics, period costumes, and iconographic documents that illustrate the city’s historical evolution.

Continue to the Chiesa di San Francesco D’Assisi, taking you out to the other send of the old town, where you can promenade along Riviera Nazario Sauro along the spiaggia della Purità. You can enjoy some refreshments at il Lanternino, enjoying the view over the beach and out to sea.

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