Navigating Puglia | A Practical Guide to Driving

Driving in Puglia is a convenient and practical option for getting around our region, whether you’re hopping between towns or heading to the beautiful beaches. However, there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure a smooth driving experience.

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Driving in Puglia | key take-aways

• Hire a small car and resist a complimentary upgrade to a bigger one. Our towns and cities have narrow roads, often with cars parked on both sides of the street.
• Italian drivers don’t always use their indicators, ignore priorities and give-way rules at junctions, especially at roundabouts (traffic circles) and will cut in front of you if you leave any space. Be prepared, and drive with confidence. Hesitation is usually considered as giving way, even against priority. On roundabouts be prepared for the driver in front of you to stop on the roundabout to give way to traffic entering the roundabout, even though traffic on the roundabout has priority.
• Do not expect Italian drivers to give way if you are merging onto the highway. Plus filter lanes onto the highway can be short. So be prepared to stop and wait for a space to merge onto the highway. On the highway, be careful of slowing down to allow cars approaching to merge – Italian drivers behind you will not be expecting this. If possible pull into the left lane.
• Dazzle, won’t dip! Italian drivers can be inconsiderate, not bothering to dip their headlights for approaching traffic. If this happens to you look away slightly, to the near side. When flashing (especially when behind you) this is often to warn you that they are approaching and will overtake, rather than suggesting you proceed!

In this article

Driving in Italy | legal requirements

To drive in Italy you must be at least 18 years of age and hold a valid driving licence. The necessary documents vary, depending on the type of vehicle.

For a car from an EU country:

• Registration certificate
• Driving licence
• Insurance policy.

For a car from a non-EU country:

• Registration certificate
• Driving licence issued by a foreign non-EU country
• International driving licence or sworn translation of the licence
• Green card or temporary border insurance policy, (check with your insurance company)
• Sticker with the initials of the country you are travelling from.

For a motorbike:

The same documents are required for travelling by motorbike. Additionally, it is mandatory to wear a UE approved helmet.

If the motorbike has an Italian number plate, you must show your vehicle tax payment sticker.

For camper vans:

• Driving licence from an EU country
• If non-EU, international driving licence or a sworn translation of the licence
• Insurance – civil liability against third parties
• Vehicle registration card if EU; for non-EU, check whether you need a green card or temporary border insurance policy, and affix a sticker with the country’s initials.

Requirements for renting a vehicle in Italy

For renting a car in Italy you will need:

• Driving licence from an EU country, held for at least one year
• If non-EU, international driving permit or a sworn translation of the licence
• Identity document
• Credit card in the driver’s name.

Many companies require drivers to be at least 21 or 23 years of age to rent a car in Italy, with a maximum age limit of between 65 and 75. It is almost always necessary to have had a driving licence for at least one year. Check with the insurance company in advance of travel.

Puglia’s highway infrastructure

Puglia boasts a diverse and well-connected highway and public road infrastructure. The region is served by several major highways, as well as a network of regional and provincial roads.

The main highway in Puglia is the SS16, which runs along the Adriatic coast and connects major cities such as Bari, Brindisi, Lecce, and Otranto. This highway offers convenient access to coastal towns and popular tourist destinations.

The SS16 branches off twice from the coastal highway, which continues as the SS379 between Monopoli and Brindisi and as the SS613 between Brindisi to Lecce. The SS16 connects once again running through the centre of Lecce before joining the Lecce ring road (the SS694 tangenziale ovest (west) and tangenziale est (east)) onward to Otranto.

Puglia’s highway system also includes the SS7 and SS603, which connects Brindisi to Taranto, the SS101, which runs from Lecce to Gallipoli, then continuing south towards Santa Maria di Leuca as the SS274. Travelling south from Lecce to Leuca will take you from the SS16 onto the SS275 (the SS16 continues to Otranto).

These highways provide efficient transportation links within the region.

In terms of public roads, Puglia has a comprehensive network of strade statali (state roads), strade regionali (regional roads), and strade provinciale (provincial roads). The strade statali, designated with the prefix “SS,” are major roads that connect various cities and towns in the region. They generally offer well-maintained routes and connect to the highway system. Usually they are dual carriageway (where the SS16 branches off from the Adriatic highway it no longer is).

The strade regionali, marked with the prefix “SR,” are regional roads that primarily serve transportation needs within specific regions of Puglia. These roads are often scenic and provide access to smaller towns and countryside areas. Usually they are one lane highway on either side which means getting stuck behind slower moving agricultural traffic is more likely!

The strade provinciale, identified with the prefix “SP,” are provincial roads maintained by local authorities. These roads mainly serve local traffic, connecting towns and villages within a specific province.

In terms of infrastructure quality, Puglia’s highways generally offer good conditions, with well-paved surfaces and appropriate signage. The regional and provincial roads may vary in quality, with some smaller roads in rural areas potentially experiencing less frequent maintenance.

It’s important to note that Puglia, like other regions in Italy, has its fair share of traffic congestion, particularly during peak travel times and in urban areas. Drivers should be prepared for potential delays and exercise caution while navigating through heavy traffic.

On the road | the driving experience

Italian drivers are known for their aggressive driving style and speed on the road. But they are generally competent drivers. Don’t be intimidated. Stay confident and you’ll blend in seamlessly with the local traffic flow.

While there is a highway code called the Codice della Strada in Italy, a more “relaxed” approach is often taken, particularly in smaller towns. It is not uncommon to encounter drivers who overlook certain rules and adopt their own driving habits.

Indicators | turn signals

One particular habit that stands out is the limited use of indicators, or turn signals. In Italy, the physical act of turning, changing lanes, or overtaking is often seen as sufficient indication of the driver’s intentions, making the use of indicators redundant. Many Italian drivers do not use their indicators whether on the highway, at junctions, or on roundabouts.

Roundabouts | traffic circles

Roundabouts can sometimes feel like a free-for-all. It is essential to approach them with caution, especially the smaller ones outside larger cities. Some Italian drivers learned to drive before roundabouts were commonplace in Italy, while others may have forgotten the rules or simply disregard them.

On Italian roads the default priority rule is to give way to traffic approaching from the right UNLESS there are road signs or markings indicating the contrary. But as with many rules and instructions independently-minded Italians take little notice.

According to the Italian Highway Code, roundabouts are considered intersections, and priority signs or road markings dictate the right of way. If there are no signs or markings, priority is given to traffic on the right, that is to vehicles coming onto the roundabout.

Most roundabouts in Italy follow the “European” style, where signs and road markings give priority to vehicles already on the roundabout.

Some older “Italian” roundabouts still exist, without any accompanying priority signs, which require traffic on the roundabout to yield to vehicles entering. In other words, the traditional priority rule of giving way to traffic on the right applies.

It is important to be aware of this distinction and ALWAYS be prepared for Italian drivers, especially older ones, who may assume they have priority when entering a roundabout without slowing down or glancing left.

When on a roundabout you might also experience drivers in front of you stopping to give way to approaching vehicles ahead of them, letting them enter the roundabout.

Since 2011, indicating entry and exit from roundabouts has been mandatory in Italy. It is considered good practice to indicate when going around the roundabout and exiting to the left. Not that you would know!

In cities like Lecce, the series of roundabouts along the main highway (SS613) from the north, particularly the first two near the bus station and just before the old town, can be chaotic during peak morning and afternoon/evening hours. It may require some courage and conviction to navigate these roundabouts, but don’t let the impatience of others behind you stress you out. Drivers in Ostuni generally manage roundabouts better, except for the busy SS16/via Papa Giovanni XXIII/SP22 roundabout.

Despite the occasional chaos, it is worth noting that accidents on roundabouts in Puglia are relatively rare.

Lastly, it is quite common to find Italian drivers using roundabouts as a convenient parking.

A matter of priority

Understanding right-of-way is crucial at junctions. Vehicles must yield to those approaching from the right unless there are signs indicating a different priority.

A stop sign means you must give way to traffic approaching from both sides.

Take caution as faded road markings can make priority rules unclear. Some towns implement one-way systems, granting priority to left-side traffic.

But once again be prepared for Italian drivers to ignore the rules of the road!

Junctions also serve as impromptu social hubs for Italian drivers. Don’t be surprised if motorists stop in the middle of the road to chat, drop off passengers, or buy cigarettes and bread, regardless of traffic behind them. It is just another unique aspect of driving in southern Italian towns.

Give yourself bonus points when the driver in front of you and the car coming in the opposite direction both stop to chat to each other.

Tailgating and highway tips

When driving in Puglia, be prepared for Italian drivers to tailgate closely when they want to overtake. It is common on the highways for them to follow closely until an opportunity to pass arises.

Instead of waiting for a safe passing moment, Italian drivers often cut in front of vehicles in the overtaking lane without signaling, expecting or forcing them to slow down. They will then abruptly merge back into the lane they overtook. This pattern continues, creating a somewhat unpredictable driving experience.

If you’re flashed at night while being overtaken, don’t worry. Many drivers do this to alert you to their presence; it is not because your rear lights aren’t functioning properly (something else that doesn’t seem to concern drivers in the south).

During the day, if oncoming traffic flashes their lights, it is often to notify you of police presence further down the road, such as a mobile speed camera or a random police checkpoint to check documents.

The ZTL (Restricted Traffic Zone)

Historic old town centers in Puglia were not designed for vehicles, which becomes evident if you inadvertently find yourself driving into one. Driving within old towns can be impractical and challenging, and it is advisable to explore them on foot instead.

Most old towns have a Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL), which prohibits private vehicles from entering, except during specific hours usually in the early morning and late afternoon.

Look for a sign depicting a white circle with red borders, indicating the restricted hours. Navigating an unfamiliar area while keeping an eye on the road, following SatNav instructions, and dealing with impatient Italian drivers behind you can make it easy to miss these signs.

Enter or exit a ZTL, and cameras will capture your license plate. The photo is automatically sent to the Municipal Police computer. A fine will be issued and forwarded by the car hire company.

Even a simple mistake of entering a ZTL can result in receiving a fine from the car rental company months after your return, ranging from €81 to €326, with an average of €180 in Puglia. These fines are often enforced against foreign drivers.

Parking

Parking in Puglia can be a challenge, especially finding a suitable space and maneuvering into it.

Italians have perfected creative parking techniques. Parallel parking skills aren’t necessary when one can simply nose into a space, regardless of the car’s fit. Tail sticking out? No problem. Corner spots at junctions, pedestrian crossings, and roundabouts are fair game for resourceful Italian drivers.

Choosing a smaller rental car proves advantageous when it comes to parking.

Blue lines

On-street parking in towns and cities is usually marked on the road surface. Blue lines indicate “pay and display” parking. Check accompanying signs for details. Payment can be made with coins, many machines accept cards, and some can be paid for using parking apps. Some tobacconists sell coupons for parking by the hour.

Check the information on signs and pay stations to find out the times and days when pay parking applies (often there are “free” hours when no payment is required) as well as the hourly cost of parking. Keep an eye on the ticket expiration time as you are feeding in your coins. Machines account for free parking hours.

You may need to input your car’s registration (license plate) number before purchasing a ticket. Look for the instruction “Digitare la targa del proprio veicolo.” Keeping a photo of your car’s registration number on your smartphone saves time (some hire car keys will have the registration number already attached). If you’ve already queued at the meter, you won’t have to join the line again.

Some parking ticket machines (in Bari for example) require you to enter only the numeric elements of the registration. Thus FB369IT would only need you to enter ‘369’.

Ensure your ticket is clearly displayed on the dashboard inside the car. The same rules apply to municipal car parks.

White lines mean that parking is free, but pay attention for any adjacent signs indicating restrictions, such as maximum time limits. In these cases, display a parking disc on your dashboard indicating the arrival time. You can purchase these discs for a few euros at tobacconists or newspaper shops. Rental cars often come with these discs already attached to the windshield.

Yellow lines indicate that spaces are reserved for disabled badges, taxis, or official vehicles. You may encounter green zones with restricted parking during certain hours on working days for deliveries and similar activities. A number of pink spaces are for pregnant women or those with young children (check adjacent signs).

Do not park in areas reserved for the disabled. These parking spaces are well marked with yellow lines and often have special signs. They are free of charge for those entitled to park and their carers, who can also park free of charge on the blue lines.

Fuelling Up

Most petrol stations offer self-service, but you can opt for attendant service at a slightly higher cost (around €0.08 more per liter).

For self-service, you typically need to pay in advance and select the pump. Make sure you have cash notes as VISA debit/credit cards often don’t work well. Even Italian bank and credit cards can sometimes be challenging!

No change is given, so if you select €50 of fuel and your tank fills up after €30, the driver behind you will be pleased. Keep some twenties and tens on hand, as you can always add another €20 of fuel afterward.

Some stations on the autostrada and main highways allow you to fill up and pay afterward, where cards tend to work better. However, these stations are less common.

Be careful to choose the correct pump, it is an easy mistake to select the pump on the opposite side and have to stretch the hose across.

“Benzina” = petrol, unleaded = “senza Pb”.

Speed Limits

Maximum speed limits apply as follows (subject to any contrary road signs):

• 50 km/h in built-up areas in built-up areas (urban areas). Beware that these limits often extend to the stretch of highway passing around the towns, so watch for signs indicating lowered speed limits, even on highways.
• 90 km/h on secondary and local roads, 110 km/h on main roads (non-major highways outside major urban areas), and 130 km/h on motorways.

On the Adriatic highway (subject to any contra-indication signage) the speed is limited to 90 km/h for most of the Bari – Ostuni section, increasing to 110 km/h just before Ostuni. On the toll roads the limit is 130 km/h.

Speed limits for newly-qualified drivers: Special speed limits on motorways (100 km/h) and on main roads (90 km/h) for those who have held their licence for less than three years. Speed limits are the same for urban roads and secondary or local roads.

For camper vans, the limits are: 50 km/h in built-up areas, 80 km/h outside of built-up areas, 100 km/h on motorways (if over 3.5 t and up to 12 t total laden mass), 50 km/h in built-up areas, 70 km/h outside of built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways (if over 12 t total laden mass).

For motorbikes and mini-cars up to 50 cc the maximum speed is 45 km/h. They are not allowed to drive on motorways, although this is possible for more powerful motorcycles.

Sidelights

Sidelights and dipped beams should be kept on outside of built-up areas. Dipped beams should be used from half an hour after sunset to half an hour before sunrise or in the event of poor visibility.

Motorcyclists must also keep their sidelights and dipped beams on in built-up areas.

Dipped beams are required in tunnels.

Highway vs. Local Routes

Driving through Puglia’s countryside is breathtaking, particularly in areas like Valle d’Itria or our personal favorite, the coastal road from Santa Cesarea Terme to Santa Maria di Leuca.

Once you venture into the countryside, you’ll encounter many single-lane roads, even on main routes. Some roads are narrow and can accommodate only one vehicle at a time.

Expect slow-moving agricultural vehicles as soon as you leave the highway. Getting stuck behind a tractor or “ape” (a three-wheeled utility vehicle) can be frustrating, especially when there’s already a long line of traffic behind them on a winding road filled with curves and bends.

Italy’s road classification system includes:

• Strade comunali (municipal roads)
• Strade provinciali (provincial roads)
• Strade regionali (regional roads)
• Strade statali (state roads)
• Autostrade (highways)

The traffic volume on strade statali (SS) varies from place to place. Some are busy roads, but they can also be quiet and scenic, particularly in remote parts of Puglia.

The SS16 is the main highway around Bari but diverts from the highway to Fasano, Ostuni, and San Vito dei Normanni before rejoining the highway at Brindisi.

There are also instances where a new, faster road (superstrada or strada scorrevole) has been built alongside certain strade statali, leaving the old road with the same classification. (Strade regionali, by the way, are essentially strade statali where maintenance responsibility has been transferred to the regional government.)

This situation occurs with the SS16 as well. It separates from the highway heading south around Brindisi, where the highway becomes the SS379 and the SS16 runs parallel to the west of the highway.

For local routes, strade provinciali (SP) and strade comunale are usually a reliable choice. However, keep in mind that a strada provinciale between two towns may still have significant local traffic.

The SS16 Bari “tangenziale”

The ring road around Bari is designated as the SS16 ring road (tangenziale). It features freeway-like characteristics, with separate lanes expanding from two to three around junction 4 before reducing back to two near junction 14. You will navigate it driving south from Bari airport, or heading north to Bari airport.

As the Bari tangenziale is the busiest stretch of road in Puglia, it might feel like a baptism of fire, but fear not! Things can only get better.

There are two challenging sections to watch out for that demand extra attention. The initial stretch of highway after leaving Bari airport heading south, curving around Palese, is a busy section with a minimal or non-existent shoulder. Acoustic screens are erected. It feels narrower as a result.

Apart from that, the road is generally unproblematic. Traffic usually flows freely, except during peak times around Bari. Traffic is noticeably busier over the summer months building up from July to its busiest around the ferragosto holiday (15 August) and the last weekend in August.

In the south because of la pausa (the year round afternoon siesta) which means a split working day, we have a morning rush hour (from 8am – 9.30 am), a lunch time rush hour, a mid-afternoon rush hour (around 4pm – 5pm) and an evening rush hour (from 7.30pm)!

There is also heavier traffic entering/exiting and around Lecce, and to a lesser extent, around Brindisi, which may cause congestion during peak hours.

Toll Roads

Toll booths are located at the entrances of the autostrade (highways). Autostrade are identified by the letter A followed by a number, such as A1, and a green octagonal sign.

Upon entering the toll road, a ticket is issued by an automated machine. Unless you have a Telepass, do not use the TELEPASS lane.

Keep the ticket you receive as you will need it to exit the toll road. At the exit, you pay the toll at the toll booths. If you fail to present the ticket at the exit, you will be charged the maximum toll fee. When approaching the toll road exit, ensure you are in the correct lane based on your chosen method of payment.

The white lane with the coins symbol is for self-service cash payment.

The blue lane with the cards symbol is for payment using credit cards, ATMs, or bancomat cards.

The yellow TELEPASS lane is reserved for vehicles equipped with an electronic scanner that automatically calculates the toll and debits the user’s account.

The toll you pay is calculated based on factors such as distance, vehicle type, and road characteristics (e.g., plain or mountainous). You can use an online tool to calculate your journey’s toll fees.

Trunk (SS), regional (SR), and provincial (SP) roads do not require any toll payment. They are indicated by a blue rectangular sign.

If you are using GPS or a SatNav device, note that your settings might default to exclude pay/toll roads, which could explain why the estimated journey time appears to be two or three times longer than expected. Double-check your settings to ensure toll roads are included if you intend to use them.

In the event of an accident

Don’t panic. Put on your reflective jacket or vest and call the local police. To request ACI roadside assistance, the toll-free number is 800 116 800, available all year round 24 hours a day (8803 116 toll-free from a landline or mobile with Italian provider).

On motorways S.O.S. posts are provided to call for roadside assistance from the first available road patrol.

The hearing impaired can obtain Road Assistance in Italy by sending an SMS to the mobile phone number +39 339 994 3116. Information on road and traffic conditions is available 24 hours a day through the telephone
number 1518 (in Italian only).

If you have a hire car you should contact your car hire company on the number they will have provided you with.

What to do in the event of a road accident with casualties

In this situation, calling for assistance is a priority. If you cause or witness an accident in which people or animals are injured, the driver is obliged to stop and provide assistance. The Single Emergency Number 112 (NUE 112) is the telephone number for calling the emergency services in all EU countries. There are 16 languages available. However, in Italy this number is not yet active in all regions and provinces. Therefore, the usual numbers may still be valid: 118 to request an ambulance; 112 for the Carabinieri (national gendarmerie of Italy); 113 Police or Traffic Police; 115 Fire Brigade.

To find out more, you can visit the Driving in Italy section on the Automobile Club d’Italia website. 

Car essentials

• Warning triangle, which must be positioned at least 50 metres from the rear of the car in the event of an emergency stop.
• Reflective jacket or high-visibility braces to be worn in the event of an accident or breakdown outside of built-up areas.
• Seat belts for the driver and passengers. When travelling with children under 1.50 metres tall, additional caution is required: they must sit in approved child seats.
• Motorbike drivers under the age of 16 cannot carry a passenger. Persons over 16 are permitted to carry a child over the age of 5. Helmets are compulsory for drivers and any passenger.

Wear prescription glasses if required and sunglasses when necessary, and appropriate foot wear. 

The use of mobile phones and electronic devices is prohibited, as is driving under the influence of drugs and/or psychotropic substances.

Alcohol limit in Italy

We do not drink when we drive. There are no “safe” levels of alcohol consumption when driving.

The alcohol driving limit in Italy is 0.5 grams per litre for all vehicles, including motorbikes. For new drivers (i.e. in the first three years after obtaining a licence) and professional drivers there is an absolute zero tolerance.

In the event of drink-driving, penalties include fines and/or the suspension or revocation of the driving licence, depending on the blood alcohol level detected. The law identifies three thresholds:

• Blood Alcohol level up to 0.5 grams of alcohol per litre of blood
• Blood alcohol level above 0.5 g/l but not exceeding 0.8 g/l
• Blood alcohol level of more than 0.8 g/l but not more than 1.5 g/l
• Blood alcohol level exceeding 1.5 g/l.

The latter two constitute a criminal offence that can include a detention by the court (the former attract administrative fines).

More

Getting to Puglia and getting around Puglia.

The Big getting here & getting around FAQ

Navigating Puglia | A guide to public transport in Puglia.

The Big Puglia By Public Transport Guide

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